Front Wheel Bearing Removal

[94box]

Hello All:

vehicle is a 94 sidekick 4dr 16valve.

Question is how to remove the front wheel bearing lock nut plate and what type of socket to use to remove the nut. (those anoying philips head screws are a headache, had the head strip out on one already)

Any input would be most appreciated,

thanks,

94box (zoltan).

[Gman]

94, Glad to see you back, looks like you've been busy.

This is one of my current issues (I have at least four that need new bearings)

I searched through my screwdrivers for the perfect fit (an old electricion's trick)

I've searched quite a bit to locate a socket with the right four pins...

So far my best guess would be to build one by welding (the business end of) four round punches in every third side of a 12 sided 44MM socket... used sockets can be found...

Any other Ideas ??

Jeff

[Lucy]

It's really easy , all you need is to removel the 4 little retaining screws on the retaining ring/plate. Best tool for the job ,actually in my opinion a nessisary tool is an impact screw driver. It knocks the screws loose without stripping the heads. I found this picture of one so you know what I'm talking about www.toolmix.com/browse/product.asp?gid=459&pid=39033 you can pick them up at princess auto for about $10.00 ( for the small one) . After you get the retaining ring off all you need is a good metal punch and a decent hammer. It might take a couple really good wacks to get it to break free but once it does, it will turm off like butter. Just remeber to knock it in th right direction and your good

[Gman]

Thats OK if you want to skuff up the nut by beating the crap out of it... I consider 180 Ft-Lbs of torque to be quite a bit of pressure on the bearing... which is not a "range" at all... its an exact specification... intended to properly load the one piece bearings used from '93 up

Haynes states... later Sidekick models use a one piece sealed type wheel bearing... that requires no adjustment as the preload is set by the locknut... AND it is important that the locknut is tightened to the specified torque...

So... is This Incorrect information ?? or did the manufacturer decide to change their mind about silly rigid specifics ??

Jeff

[Lucy]

Ooook.....First of if you use the proper punch and aren't stupid about it you do not skuff up the lock nut/ring. Now as for the rest. The pre 94 bearings are not sealed (you are correct) so with those the preload on the bearing is set by the lock ring , yes the preload is very important and If you know what your doing , yes you can set it properly. The post 94 bearings as was stated are sealed , the lock ring does not set the preload on these bearings. The perload is already set on a sealed bearing (also no regreaseing) , thats why they are better!! Also just a side note you can replace the pre 94 bearings with the new sealed bearing, and if you want to be a real stickler you can get the proper tool from suzuki.

Now torque specs and what not are important things to consider ,so just a warning here, from my experiance Haynes is not the place to get acurate information. I have found alot if incorrect information there which is why my haynes was used for kindleing a long time ago. Personally I recomend Chilton or ideally a suzuki service manual.


"So... is This Incorrect information ?? or did the manufacturer decide to change their mind about silly rigid specifics ??"

I have 13 years of hands on experiance and a truck that speaks for it's self , with a good head on ones shoulders you sometimes find there is more then one way to do things. Good problem solving doesn't come from a manual.

[mrmugs]

I did my front wheel bearings not to long ago and I did exactly what Lucy just said. I find that imact wrench/punch has done wonders for me on many different areas of the truck. As far as getting the actual lock nut off, I also used a punch and ball peen. Patience, that's the key to any "home car repair". To tighten I simply bashed it the opposite way. I'm not kidding. I put it back together, tires and all then checked for movement and if there was any I took it apart again and bashed it tighter til I could set the lockplate on the next hole. Hey, it took longer but I have no access to a welder or shop so you have to make do with what you got. I check the play once in a while and they are still nice and tight!
Hope this helps! Doug

[mrmugs]

Btw Lucy is right (it seems Lucy is always right ) about pre 94 bearings, mine is 92 and they are not sealed and after searching the parts stores I found all this out.
I hope you have an easier time than I did getting the bearing races out. I couldn't get the hub assembly to a shop to get them pressed out b/c the Kick is all I have for a vehicle. I ended up getting a steel plate, 7/8 bolt and nut and washers big enough to fit over the race. I drilled a hole large enough in the plate to fit the bolt. Then I put the bolt through the hub assembly with the head with the washers facing the back of the race and I slipped the plate onto the bolt along with a couple more washers and then the nut and started cranking, unfortunatly this only goes so far, up to the plate. In my case it didn't even get that far before bending the 1/4 plate and stretching the bolt! Luckily bashing the snot out of it with hammer and a large pipe worked. When in doubt use a hammer. Once again..
Hope this helps!
DOUG

[sapien]

there's a variety of axle/wheel bearing nut sockets at www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW406.html
perhaps the Toyota or Ford one would fit? they're on EBay too

the tq spec in the 94 factory service manual is 210 N-m (155 lb-ft)

[Gman]

At the time I was looking for a socket (snap-on, matco,chevy/tracker dealers) no one could show me one, or a part#, or even a manufacturer... Then all the Suzuki Dealerships in mid Tenn had closed... until recently... Now one has opened up in an old convenience store... the building added on to and beginning to look decent... I'll check with them... for availability

If Suzuki ever made a socket or marketed a socket, there should be a part#... maybe listed in a Suzuki Service manual ??

I haven't justified the purchase of any new manuals... Sidekicks are self explainatory as far as I'm concerned... with five or six exceptions... and with so many recent opportunities to buy parts and whole Kicks at 5% to 10% on the dollar... that is where I am investing my "hobby money"

I've used Haynes mostly only for the torque specs. and capacities...

I started learning in '67 on an engine/trans swap in my '47 CJ2A and '48 **** Truck... then on to a '64 4WD Scout then '75 CJ5 then '79 Cherokee and a nice old '67 Gladiator...

During my years in engineering school, I hobied in GTX's and later a corvette ('70 LT1) powered '76 Olds Starfire (I fitted it's nearly new V6 in a friend's '73 VEGA) (and still have ALL of these vehicles)

Then I gained more valuable experience behind the counter, in my three parts stores, from locating various odd ball parts and specialty tools along with street high perf and 4WD lift kits/performance accessories...

I'm not about to and nor would any of the mechanics that I respect and have discussed this subject with ... presume to set anything to 156 pounds torque with a punch...

Jeff

[Gman]

mrmugs, thanks for the heads up on the bearing races, I was hopeing to just swap the whole hub with the bearings in it... from the several 2WD Hubs I've collected...

Only bearings that have gone bad for me were from 4WD's... for obvious reasons I guess...

I have five or six sets to swapand more to inspect... so I'll see where in the years the bearings changed (on the 2 dr models...)

Jeff

[Gman]

Gus, Thanks for the Web address... The one we need is way smaller than the Ford/Chevy/ Nissan /Toyota etc. I'm reminded that K-D and OTC are among the first that I checked with...

And, at the time, I more or less concluded that the company that Chevy/Suzuki used to supply their dealer service depts... only made a quantity for that original distribution (the dealers are forced to pay for tools sent to them as part of their dealership requirements).

It would be fun to design and build one to perfection... but I no longer have access to a machine shop...

Jeff

[louthepou]

I wouldn't have expected that Sidekicks spindles would've been different, even between 4 and 2 door models. I mean, these trucks are primitive enough, the same spindle could have been used is all of them...

I never had to change a front bearing in a Sidekick, but in my previous vehicles, what I'd do was to take off the spindle, take it to a good shop, have them extract and change th bearing, then I'd reinstall the spindle. Of course, that had a lot to do with the fact that the bearings had o be pressed in with many pounds of pressure...

Louis

[Gman]

Sounds like a Mazda problem I had on the 323 just to replace a lug bolt or turn the rotors... the only place I could find was the dealer (too delicate to press apart without a special Mazda tool)

Solution was... Just get another complete spindle from the salvage yard ($35.00 US) in stead of an 80 dollar labor and possible damage to the bearing (another 40 or so)

I have no intention of buying any new bearings... And no shop could show me a tool to properly set the torque...

Louis, yours is the best general recommendation for most Track/Kick owners... to remove the assembly themselves and pay for as little labor as possible...

In this particular case I have to recommend.... the owner locate the proper device for the job and take it with the spindle to the shop of their choice...

I'm looking for a socket...

as for 2Door vs. 4 door vehicles... it is a possibility that the change to a single sealed front wheel bearing came at different times between the two models... (and I can only speak from experience with the 2 door)

I've thought about "punching" a couple of them apart... just to see what's going on... since I will end up with more nuts... than good bearings...

The old style bearing likely can be treated as I have all other manually adjustable bearing sets... I've set that type by ear for the last 30+ year...

But I really wanted to replace them with the newer, better, and maybe more expensive, new style one piece bearings...

Jeff

[louthepou]

With evey bearing (as much as I know), you can find the dimensions (or at least a number) on them. Then, going to a specialized bearing shop, you can chat with the folks that know bearings the most, and find the best possible bearing for any application. I can only guess that this couls apply to wheel bearings as well.

Did that once for a bike I owned. Pulverized a (supposedly) sealed rear wheel bearing (after 10 days of riding in the rain going from Ottawa to Vancouver, Canada, summer of 1993). Water washed the grease out, rear wheel stopped wheeling.

Found a match in a stock of bearings, not sealed but still it saved my trip. Try to find a Yamaha OEM bearing in Kamloops, BC on a Sunday morning... good luck.

Well, enough for now, kids' bath time,

Lou

[mrmugs]

I bought a ford socket just to see if it would work because it looked like it would. Of course it didn't but I thought oyu all should know that Ford does not work. Luckily I was able to return it. I shudder to think that I would have to use a Ford tool on my little Suzuki.
Btw about the bearing torque. I said I bashed them back tight BUT, I will probably get premature wear b/c they are either too tight or too loose. So if you can, do the job properly with the right tools. I always try to when I can.