Gman
Counts zuks instead of sheep
Posts: 530
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Post by Gman on Nov 5, 2005 0:14:04 GMT -5
mrmugs, Since yours is a '92... I think you can just snugg it like an adjustable bearing usually gets treated... it should be ok ... The super high torques of 155 lbs + indicated for the newer bearing models... are another matter...
Another point I am beginning to see is that the newer one piece bearings may not be going bad anyway...
Two of my bad ones are '94 and if Haynes is correct they are the new style... but if Lucy is right, then the '94's are more of the old style... I'll start with them first to see which bearing...
Jeff
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sapien
Full Member
the shaggin' wagon
Posts: 179
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Post by sapien on Nov 5, 2005 1:05:02 GMT -5
the tool part # in my Tracker service manual is J 37763. not sure if Suzuki goes by the same numbers. it can be found but runs $80-90!
I had wondered if the Toyota one would fit just by analogy of the similarities in the 4WD Aisin hubs.
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Gman
Counts zuks instead of sheep
Posts: 530
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Post by Gman on Nov 5, 2005 3:58:01 GMT -5
You know, Gus, I did See a hub in the mud once at a salvage yard and it looked a whole lot like the Suzuki lockout hub... I supposed it came off of a nearby Toyota 4x4...
If the hub's bolt pattern is close... then the area restricting the size of nut used, must be similar...
pretty sure I checked all the dimensions of the available sockets during that last attempt...
Thanks for the service manual info...(J 37763). My cousin married into a Chevy Dealership family in Kentucky... I just recently talked with him for the first time since the marriage... The whole conversation was million this and million that and how they made most their money in service and body work...
Also Gus, Why did you change your username ?? I kinna liked the "Gee" part...
In the 70's my name was "Gloppyman" (then the speed limit was 55 and my little yellow Starfire would blow doors off Corvettes in the top end... and CB radio communications became a must...)
Jeff
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94box
Senior Member
Posts: 305
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Post by 94box on Nov 6, 2005 12:44:15 GMT -5
thank you all for your input. to gman, after searching through my chilton manual, i found a suk part number for the front whel bearing #09951-16050, price is over twohundred dollars canadian, i like the idea of punch and hammer to remove but ultimately would like to have a tool to tighten. to lucy, i agree that haynes is not the best book for torque values, i have a chilton as well and i find it superior in providing torque values. i noticed cupping on one of my front tires so i assumed it may be a wheel bearing, to check for any freeplay, do i have to push the piston back into the caliper and then check or can i just lift it off the ground and give it a tug?? thank you all for the locnut tool pics, 94box. PS i have been away for a while, but now im back had a 220v line installed in the garage to run a space-heater, now I won't have to freeze ;D
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Gman
Counts zuks instead of sheep
Posts: 530
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Post by Gman on Nov 6, 2005 14:43:10 GMT -5
The first one I discovered had a light metallic triple-popping sound at speeds of 5-10mph and only with the wheels turned, fairly sharp to the left... Then lifted it up and could find no other symptoms... So I tried replacing the assembly (between the four bolt connection and the locking hub) and the noise went away...
The next two made no sounds to warn... but while checking brake pad condition, I found the wheel extremely loose (in an up & down motion) later the other side did the same thing (they came from ebay in a bargain deal (axles, auto hubs, spindles, on both sides, incl. shipping for around $60) supposed to be from a '94... I can't wait to see those damaged bearings...
I also have a couple that have broken bolts in them (don't the bolts rust in place and break more frequently with manual hubs ??)
I still wonder if anyone Has Had a one piece bearing to fail...
Jeff
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mrmugs
Senior Member
Posts: 446
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Post by mrmugs on Nov 6, 2005 15:27:52 GMT -5
Lift your front end off the ground and grab the wheel on the top and the bottom and tug it back and forth, if you notice any play at all you will either have to repack and tighten your bearings or replace them depending on how much wear there is. I actually had about a 1/2 inch of play on my front left wheel and it was howling whenever I turned left. The bearing cage was broken and there was some pronounced score marks on the rollers and the races so I replaced them. To keep costs down I didn't replace my passenger side I just cleaned and repacked and tightened them. My bearings were 90 dollars a side and I could only afford the driver side! I would reccomend replacing both if it's needed.
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Gman
Counts zuks instead of sheep
Posts: 530
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Post by Gman on Nov 6, 2005 19:07:45 GMT -5
Well said... mrmugs
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Post by Lucy on Nov 7, 2005 8:03:19 GMT -5
94 is the year suzuki changed the front wheeling bearings to the one peice sealed bearings. The tightness and preload is more vital on the older style greasable bearings. The best way to set the preload if you cant use a torque wrench is to thread the lock ring on as tight as you can by hand. You can use a punch to make this easier by sticking the punch in one of the holes and turning the ring by hand. Once you have it hand tight , gently tap it around with the punch and hammer till it's tight and you cant tap it any further without getting a bit more rough with it. Once your there use a little more force and tap it forward till the screw holes line up on the lock ring plate. once you've done that put your tire back on and check the preload by giving the tire a spin , it should make about one complete turn and come to a stop if the preload is correct. If it goes more then 1 and a 1/2 turns you need to tighten the lock ring one more notch and try again. if it Stops in less then one turn you need to back it off one notch. Just remember to give the wheel a spin within reason , dont go pushing it with all ya got or you'll get the preload too tight and blow your bearing. Just use good judgement. Personally I would recomend replaceing the bearing with a newer sealed style as it's alot easier. Just remember what ever you do you'll need to get the bearing race pressed out of the hub. The bearings are set to the races they come with , NEVER put a cone bearing in a race it didn't come with. Most shops will press a bearring out and press the new one in for you for about $20 if you bring them the hub. Hope that helps you out , if you have any questions feel free to ask.
gl, Lucy
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94box
Senior Member
Posts: 305
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Post by 94box on Nov 8, 2005 13:41:46 GMT -5
thanks, will do 'tug' thing today,
94box.
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Post by suzuki55 on Aug 27, 2007 14:53:24 GMT -5
I also have the Haynes repair book for my sidekick and it sure enough the torque suggested for the front wheel bearing lock nut is 159 ft.lbs. Come on now!!! Have anyone applied 159 ft.lbs to a nut using a torque wrench??? I mean this is a lot of torque to be applied to wheel bearings. An old mechanic I used to know taught me his way of torquing wheel bearing nuts. It went: Apply a really big torque to the nut while turning the wheel, then loosen the nut free and then retighten the nut just until the wheel has no more sideplay and use the next closest hole for the cotterpin. I think the mistake lies where it says foot.pounds , it should read inch.pounds so what I did was to devide 159 inch.pounds by 12 to get foot.pounds and the result is around 13 foot.pounds which, to me, seemed a reasonable torque and that,s the way I,ve done it. Let me know what you think.
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Post by bikemon ("Trent") on Mar 28, 2008 14:34:17 GMT -5
this thread came up on a google search. I read through it to make sure I did things right.
I'm confused.
setting 160 ft lbs of torque with a punch? on a wheel bearing?
chilton says the torque on the spindle is 45-60 ft lbs.
am I reading this information on the wrong page?
also, I think Lucy said something about a punch and hammer only dammaging the lock nut if you get crazy with the pounding... I think the previous owners of my kick used the punch method of torquing my front wheel bearings. my spindle lock nut is all beat up in all four of the holes. Improvise, adapt and overcome get'r'done. I don't like the scars on my parts, but I did use the punch method before I found this thread. it was a bear to loosen! no simple smack was loosening them. I had to pound on them for at least ten minutes.
I like the "tire spin" method for checking the torque. one and a half turns is the sounds like a sure fire way to know that they are on tight enough to not fail? I'll double check that this afternoon.
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