Gman
Counts zuks instead of sheep
Posts: 530
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Post by Gman on Feb 16, 2005 2:38:04 GMT -5
Yall are "thinking outside the Tank"
I'd say if The system is loosing its built up pressure, it might come on briefly... I know the pump is very noticable when the line has been disconnected and it'll run for two or three seconds.
(remember "Haynes" thinks we should potentially always have built up pressure)
I have several that I could check for comparison purposes... to determine if most all of them can be heard at the filler neck or if its a rare thing...
I'll have to bribe a kid to be key flicker, I gave up the wife that would help me with the hobbys; when I traded for a much newer model... come to think of it , I never trade cars...
Jeff
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Post by phirman on Feb 17, 2005 12:58:43 GMT -5
I recently replaced fuel pump on my 94 Sidekick; turned out to be fairly painless, about $90.00 from Advance auto parts.
To determine that it was a fuel pump problem I sprayed some starting fluid in the breather, turned starter over and it fired.
You could also check the pump by by jumping the connecter at the tank with a 12 volt source (battery charger, jump box, battery, etc.) and listening for the pump. When you turn the ignition switch on; the pump only powers on for about 3 or 4 seconds. I verified this with a test light at the plug at the tank.
There are 2 connecters at the tank, one is the sending unit, the other is the pump. The one with the pink wire is the pump.
Another thing you could try once you find the connecter would be to run the pump backwards for a few seconds to see if it will break loose and run.
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Post by tuckerx1111 on Feb 17, 2005 18:41:38 GMT -5
Hi; The fuel pump is in the tank in a 94 4 door sidekick
you will hear it kick in only for a few seconds. A good way (cheap ) to check it is to have someone give the tank a good tap or two with a rubber mallot or lug wrench or whatever and then try turning the key and listening for a short whirl noise. also try turning the key while taping. if this works, it means your fuel pump needs replacement. I've been told that you can install a inline fuel pump without having to remove the expensive in tank pump. it has to be rated for the same pressure ( I think its 35 -40 ) also , it has been known for a poor electrical contact to the fuel pump which causes the fuel pump not to work.
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Post by sheddy on Feb 18, 2005 15:39:12 GMT -5
 my bit the `humming sound that is heard in the tank could be(and i`m not saying it is) the pump in a seized state.. i`ve always assumed that most fuel pumps inside tanks, had a thermal cutout built in.. this could be why you hear a short burst of sound from the tank.. if it didn`t have a thermal cutout, then surely if the pump did seize and overheat. well you know the rest (boom) oh and gman i see you`ve become a member of the `nonrunner ` group
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Post by Sidekicker4 on Feb 19, 2005 18:48:16 GMT -5
Definitely in a pickle now, the fuel pump definitely was bad, the new one purrs like kitten, getting fuel too, would you beleive still not starting, tried adjusting the timing on the distributor, notta. replaced the plugs after I hosed them with starter fluid, notta. I checked TDC I see nothing out of place there, except I havent removed the timing belt cover(appears to be way difficult). The problem seems to be electrical, as the zuki gets to that almost going to start (i think I can mode) just plain stumped.
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Post by Sidekicker4 on Feb 21, 2005 12:33:16 GMT -5
So the father in law is going to send me a computer and igntion module from a 95 tracker that has 16 valve engine like mine and 4wd package, the comp is in the same place so I am going to cross my fingers. Thouhg I am not convinced that is the problem since I installed a functional fuel pump seems strange taht more than one thing go bad about the same time  |
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Post by Sidekicker4 on Mar 9, 2005 23:23:04 GMT -5
No such luck.. fuel pump, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter, father in law also sent me a computer to try,nothing works. his suggestion after this was to change timing belt, has anyone else gone to this extent on their troubleshooting, btw the timing belt has to wait til warmer weather
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Post by ussexplorer on Mar 10, 2005 0:38:13 GMT -5
If that is a 16v fuel injected. You check your fuel injection fuse? Also I'm now sure. On the 94. If it is like my 92. You might wnat to check the wiring harness going to the fuel injectors. You can find msg on the board about that. Also there is a way to bypass the ECM I believe. I have not needed to try it. But it suspose to put the injector on all the time. Enough for you to get it started and have it run.
later,
ussexplorer
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Gman
Counts zuks instead of sheep
Posts: 530
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Post by Gman on Mar 10, 2005 0:40:28 GMT -5
Guys what about the Ignitor...
The little module that sits on top of the coil. I've heard of these going bad...
That "think I can" makes me think... Distributor related.
Timing cover:
Remove the Fan clutch, the belts and then use a 6mm socket to get the crank pulley bolts out. then 8 or 10 bolts holt the cover on. Make sure the gasket is positioned back properly cause it will protect your tensioner idler from moisture...
Jeff
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Post by ussexplorer on Mar 12, 2005 3:04:34 GMT -5
I don't know if somebody said this. Check each one of your wires for spark. If you get good spark on each cable. Then that answers a few questions.
later,
ussexplorer
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Post by Sidekicker4 on Mar 27, 2005 16:15:35 GMT -5
Got it done, the problem after all was said and done!!! crossed 2 sparkplug wires in the event of repairs, now we can get her back on the road!!!
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Gman
Counts zuks instead of sheep
Posts: 530
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Post by Gman on Mar 27, 2005 19:27:00 GMT -5
Sidekicker4,
Glad you are back to running, And glad to have contributed....
A good lesson... to remind the readers to always consider this possibility. Because wires like to jump on the wrong plug sometimes... just to SCR3W with us...
Jeff
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Post by wahlspyder on Jun 3, 2005 14:15:06 GMT -5
Mine has the crazy clicking sound but if I pour fuel into the throttle body it starts and runs like a champ. Any suggestions?
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