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4X4
Dec 12, 2004 18:06:49 GMT -5
Post by maximus on Dec 12, 2004 18:06:49 GMT -5
Hello, I just bought my wife a 98 suzuki sidekick JXL sport...can anyone tell when putting it into 4x4 do you have to stop first? and taking it out of 4x4 do you have to back up? and one other question next to the shift lever there's a switch with N-A/T-P on it, and when switch to P the power indicater light goes on in the dash, exactly what does this switch do?
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4X4
Dec 13, 2004 11:22:06 GMT -5
Post by louthepou on Dec 13, 2004 11:22:06 GMT -5
Hi there Maximus, If you have the manual hub locks (like I do), in theory there's no problem shifting from 2wd to 4wd "on the fly", up to some 50 mph. In reality, though, I never do it above some 20 mph. Then, coming back from 4wd to 2wd, you could again do it in movement, but I've seen a few Sidekicks that didn't like that and took a few hundred feet to actually disengage, sometimes with a loud "clunk". I recommend coming to a halt, shifting to 2wd, then putting the transmission in reverse and backing up just a few inches. I am unsure about how all this would be different with automatic hub locks. I would assume the same recommendations would apply. Remember that the Sidekick's 4wd system is not happy on dry pavement. There's no problem driving for a short while in 2wd mode with the manual hub locks in the "lock" position, though. As for the N - A/T - P stuff, check this previous post - not much, but it's a start. sidekick.proboards21.com/index.cgi?board=sidekick&action=display&thread=1098616529Cheers! Louis
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4X4
Dec 15, 2004 12:55:30 GMT -5
Post by RockJunkie on Dec 15, 2004 12:55:30 GMT -5
OK here goes.
Most 4 wheel drive vehicles can be switched from 2 HI to 4HI at up to 50MPH while the hubs are locked.
So why is that. The transfer case works by locking the front output to the rear output. As long as both outputs are spinning at the same speed the gears will mesh very nicely. If the two outputs are not spinning at the same speed the gears will grind. This can be heard when you try to switch to 4HI with the front hubs unlocked.
This means that if you have manual hubs, you need to lock them before you think about switching to 4HI. While the vehicle is stopped. With an ADD system most vehicles have one hub locked and disconnect the other hub, usally by vacuum. With an ADD system the front shafts are locked up and then the transfer case locks the 4 wheel drive system.
Remember to always read the manual on this.
Now the other part. Switching from 4HI to 4LO. When you make this switch you need to be stopped. The reason is that the input shaft speed and the output shaft speed need to be spinning within 10 to 20% of each other. When you shift from HI to LOW the output shaft will now spin 1/2 as much as the input, based on gearing. The only time that the two shaft spin the same is at a stop. This is not to say that you can't be moving at less than 2-3MPH.
The next thing to note is that the engine torque also needs to be disengaged from the transfer case when switching from HI to LOW. This means that with a manual, you need to have the clutch depressed or the transmission in neutral. With the automatic you need to have it in Neutral. Don't put the transmission in Park, this locks the output and sometimes the gears won't mesh properly. There needs to be some movement allowed within the transmisson output shaft. Sometimes with an automatic you will still hear a grinding when trying to switch Transfer case gears. This is because the output shaft of the transmisson is still spinning. You will need to shut off the car and make the switch and then re-start the car.
Now to add a few points to ponder. When the transfer case is in 4HI, Neutral, or 4LOW; both the front and rear outputs are connected in the transfer case. This means don't drive on dry pavement this way. All of the slip will be taken up in the transfer case and it can get real hot and even fracture under the stress.
Now to address the theory behind reversing the vehicle. When you shift out of 4 wheel drive some systems will still be locked together by the binding of the system. When you reverse the vehicle for a few feet you can relieve the binding and the shafts will unlock. This is more relevant on ADD systems with the vacuum connecting shafts. On muanual hubs, when you take it out of 4 wheel drive the front and rear will be disconnected. Bottom line, it never hurts if you can do it, but for most of the newer vehicles you shouldn't need to do this.
My experience is that I have never had to reverse the vehicle with either ADD or manual hubs.
With all of this, remember to read you manual and the shifting instructions.
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4X4
Dec 16, 2004 0:45:28 GMT -5
Post by nadesico81 on Dec 16, 2004 0:45:28 GMT -5
I have a 93 Suzuki Escudo its a automatic.
Most of the hubs on Suzukis are auto locking hubs. Meaning that you dont have to get out and lock the hubs on the wheels.
When I have to swich in to 4 wheel drive. You must be stoped to engage the 4 wheel drive. The power button on the dash lets the truck shift at a higher RPM which means it will excelerate faster when at a stop light. And it gives you a little bit of low end power when in 4x4 drive. How ever it does waste gas when you dirve around with the power swich on all the time.
I have found that swich is good for when you get on the express way or need a quick burst of power out of a stop light.
Hope this helps
Nadesico81 Okinawa Japan Owner of a 93 Suzuki Escudo Customized to the max
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4X4
Dec 16, 2004 0:50:36 GMT -5
Post by nadesico81 on Dec 16, 2004 0:50:36 GMT -5
Abought my previous post. I got the information on the Power/AT swich from the Suzuki dealer here in Japan. Most Japanese cars have this feture. The dealer has also told me that its best to keep it in N postion most of the time.
Nadesico81 Okinawa Japan Owner of 93 Suzuki Escuso Customized to the Max
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4X4
Dec 16, 2004 11:53:15 GMT -5
Post by louthepou on Dec 16, 2004 11:53:15 GMT -5
Thanks Rockjunkie, you're setting a new standard for precision and quality of information!
(I suspect lots will refer back to your post in the future...)
Cheers
Louis
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