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Post by ussexplorer on Nov 18, 2004 2:38:44 GMT -5
I was wondering if you ran into anything strange. My 1992 16 valve sidekick has a leaky water pump. I noticed it the other day after changing the alternator of all things. I see I have to remove the timing belt cover. Figured I would replace that too. I'm mostly concerned on not removing anything I don't need to. LIke the radiator if I can help it. Perhaps just the shroud and a few other things. Also anything special for the timing belt? I helped before with changing timing chains and know about the line up marks. But never done a belt.
Thanks,
Josh
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Post by northstar1958 on Nov 18, 2004 5:03:08 GMT -5
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Post by ussexplorer on Nov 19, 2004 2:35:34 GMT -5
I didn't even think of autozone. I purchase parts there all the time. A few questions after reading the process.
1. did you have to remove the pully from the crankshaft in order to remove the timing cover?
(If so I need to pick up a puller. Luckly autozone rents them.)
2. Was you able to reuse the seal on the timing cover?
(If not I can pick on up)
3. Did you have to replace those rubber things. It says one model uses two and the other uses one between the water pump and oil pump?
Just have to say how lucky you are. Having the engine out. Much make things alot easier. Looks like I just have to remove the fan and radiator shroud. Thank Goodness.
I hate to be so picky about this. But this is the only vehicle running right now and when I do this next weekend. I want to make sure I have everything I need to pull the truck apart. Complete the repair and re-assemble the truck.
Now if I just had money to replace the leaking readiator while I was at it. Oh well another day another project.
Thanks,
Josh
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Post by northstar1958 on Nov 19, 2004 4:10:12 GMT -5
Josh;
Yes, you need to remove the crank pulley, but if yours is like mine, it should have 5 small hex bolts around the bigger nut on the center of the pulley. You take the five hex nuts off and the pulley will fall off (no puller needed).
You should replace the seal on the timing cover. I got a timing belt kit for mine (belt, tensioner, and a new seal) it all came with the kit.
As for the small rubber (foam) gasket between the water pump and oil pump, if you have a new one, replace it...if not...don't worry about it. Good luck.
Northstar
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Post by louthepou on Nov 19, 2004 10:21:57 GMT -5
The crank pulley sometimes needs a little coaxing to let go - gently tapping on it with a soft-faced hammer (rubber, copper or something softer than the pulley anyways).
Be sure to make marks on everything when you start playing in this area, so you can put everything back at the right index. Also, it's a good idea to replace the camshaft seal when you have access to it.
Louis
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Post by ussexplorer on Nov 19, 2004 23:25:36 GMT -5
how hard is the camshaft seal to replace? I'm working on a limited budget and to be honest the only reason I'm replacing the timing belt is because I'll have access to it while replacing the water pump. At 210,000+ miles. I thought it would be a good idea to do the belt. The engine itself needs to be gone through. I just don't have the money, time or resources at this point. I'm amazed how well it has held togther though. I orginally got the truck at 60,000. Regular services when I could aford it but nothing special. Up until the alternator the other day. I was looking at replacing the radiator because of a crack. Then a new set of tires. But the tires is just normal wear and tear.
Later,
Josh
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Post by louthepou on Nov 21, 2004 5:58:29 GMT -5
The seal is quite easy to replace; you need to remove the pulley attached to the camshaft to get access to it. The reason to change it is the same as the one you give for replacing the timing belt - easy access, while you're there (and also because they are known to get leaky).
By the way, you're decision to replace the belt is a good one, especially if it's anywhere close to 60k miles old.
If I remember correctly, it's a lot easier to do all that work with the radiator removed. But I think (not sure) it's possible with removing only the cooling fan. I personally like to have as much room as possible to work under the hood.
Cheers!
Louis
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94box
Senior Member
Posts: 305
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Post by 94box on Nov 21, 2004 17:31:04 GMT -5
Hello All:
just to put my two cents in, for ussexplorer, if you don't have a/c then removing the rad is sound to have more room, mine has a/c so i did not feel like having it discharged etc, you can if you wish keep the rad in, the only tricky thing is to take care in removing the small 8mm hex bolts that hold the pulley on, i used a 1/4 drive ratchet with an 8mm 1/4 inch drive socket. hope this bit helps.
94box.
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